--- title: Moving a Radon System During a Basement Remodel canonical: "https://radonmitigationyorkpa.net/radon-guide/radon-system-during-remodel/" pubDate: "2026-10-01T00:00:00.000Z" updatedDate: "2026-10-03T00:18:00.000Z" author: Radon Mitigation York PA description: "Finishing your basement? Learn how to relocate or box in a radon system the right way, what must stay visible, and why you retest after." --- # Moving a Radon System During a Basement Remodel Yes, you can relocate a radon mitigation system during a basement remodel, but plan it before framing starts. A crew that handles [radon system repair in York](/services/radon-fan-replacement-repair/) can reroute or box in the pipe, and the suction point can sometimes move. The fan must stay outside living space, the manometer must stay visible, and you should retest radon once the work is done. ## Why remodels and radon systems collide A typical radon system runs a PVC pipe from a hole in the basement slab, up a wall, and out to a fan in the attic or on the outside of the house. That pipe often sits right where you want a new wall, closet or bathroom. Remodels also change the house in ways that matter for radon: - Finishing a basement often means more time spent on the lowest level. - New drains, plumbing or sump work can open new paths for soil gas. - Contractors can crack pipe joints, unplug the fan or knock the gauge loose. That is why planning matters more than the move itself. ## Your options for the radon pipe ### Box it in The simplest option is often to frame around the existing pipe. Leave an access panel at the manometer and any cleanouts, and keep the pipe labeled. This keeps the system working as designed and costs the least. ### Reroute it If the pipe sits in the middle of a planned room, a certified mitigator can reroute it along a wall or into a closet or utility area. The new route still needs a continuous slope back toward the slab, commonly at least 1/8 inch per foot, so condensation drains. ### Move the suction point Sometimes the suction hole in the slab itself is in the way. A mitigator can add a new suction point in a better spot and seal the old one. This is a bigger job, and suction needs to be tested at the new spot before the old one is closed. ### Move the fan If the fan is in the attic above a planned room addition, or the exterior fan is where a new deck will go, it can be moved. It must stay out of conditioned space. Recognized standards allow fan locations such as unoccupied attics, garages that are not below living space, or the outside of the house. ## What must stay the same Whatever changes, a few rules do not: - **The fan stays outside living space.** No fans in basements or finished rooms. - **The exhaust stays above the roof line**, away from windows and doors. - **The manometer stays visible** so you can check it monthly. - **All pipe stays labeled** as a radon reduction system. - **The fan stays on a circuit without a wall switch.** ## Seal new openings Remodels often add new openings in the slab or walls, such as drain lines, new sump pits or plumbing chases. Each one can be a path for radon. Ask your mitigator to seal them as part of the work. A sealed sump lid also helps the system pull suction more evenly. ## Plan the timeline 1. **Before design is final:** call a certified mitigator to look at the system and your plans. 2. **Before framing:** reroute pipe or move suction points. 3. **During drywall:** leave access panels at the gauge and any joints you may need to reach. 4. **After work is done:** confirm the gauge reading and test radon. ## Retest after the remodel EPA advises retesting after major renovations. A finished basement changes how air moves in your home, and you may now spend more time on that level. Run a short-term test no sooner than 24 hours after the system is back in normal operation, in closed-house conditions. See the [EPA Citizen's Guide to Radon](https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2016-12/documents/2016_a_citizens_guide_to_radon.pdf) for testing guidance. After that, keep up with your [radon system maintenance checklist](/radon-guide/radon-system-maintenance/) so you catch problems early. ## Who can do the work in Pennsylvania In Pennsylvania, anyone who mitigates radon in a home they do not own or live in must be certified by PA DEP under the Radon Certification Act. Your general contractor may not be certified, so the radon changes should be done by a certified mitigator. Many York homes are older, with stone or block foundations and tight basements, so routing choices can be limited. A site visit before the remodel helps. ## Key takeaways - Plan radon system changes before framing begins. - You can box in, reroute, add a suction point or move the fan. - The fan stays outside living space and the gauge stays visible. - Seal new slab openings made during the remodel. - Retest radon once the work is finished. ## Frequently Asked Questions ### Can I just cut the radon pipe and cap it during the remodel? No. Capping the pipe shuts the system down and radon can build back up. Have a mitigator plan any temporary changes. ### Will finishing my basement raise radon levels? It can change them. New openings, changed airflow and more time on that level all matter. That is why EPA advises retesting after major renovations. ### Can the radon pipe go inside a closet? Often, yes. A closet is a common route as long as the pipe keeps its slope, stays labeled and the gauge stays visible. ## Need your system moved? We can relocate pipe, fans and suction points so your remodel and your radon system work together. We offer radon fan replacement in York and system changes for any installer's system. Call [(717) 356-3035](tel:+17173563035) any time for a free written quote.